Coutts Food: Passion brings Italy to British tables
Coutts Food: Passion Brings Italy to British Tables

Quality is the byword for Machiavelli who source specialist artisan foods from hidden quarters of Italy for the British market. What they're importing is the essence of the country; foods that owe much to the slow food movement which values cultural cuisine and the traditions of small producers who take pride in their products.

The delicacies glistening under the glass in the deli café at Manicomo in Duke of York's Square, Chelsea, give an idea of the type of Italian food that Machiavelli, joint owners of the restaurant, import. There are large pastas filled with mouth-watering cheeses, cooked hams and spinach, and grilled vegetables glistening with olive oil. It's this food that makes Manicomo and Machiavelli special. And it arrives twice a week from Italy in refrigerated transport.

Nina Machiavelli

Machiavelli brings Italy right to your door. But roll back 12 years and the story was very different. Because this is how long it's been since Machiavelli was conceived in the small Tuscan hill town of San Casciano. But to be correct it's only the name that was born here. Ninai Zarach and her husband Andrew were dining in a restaurant that claimed to be the cottage where Niccolo Machiavelli had lived. It was when they were offered wine named Machiavelli that according to Ninai, 'Andy said that's it and I said that's true'. And so the name for the company was created.

Ninai and her husband had a farm in Italy they visited for holidays. It produced olives and consequently olive oil. One year, when they had more oil than normal, Ninai decided to see if she could sell it. 'I had no idea what got into me. I picked up the phone and called Mosimanns which was the nearest name I could think of. I said I've got this oil, are you interested? How far away are you he asked? I said ten minutes and he replied you'd better come down.' So off she went armed with a jam jar of oil and optimism and secured an order for five litres. Ninai then thought, 'I wonder if I can get rid of a bit more. So I phoned my friend Rowley Leigh, one of our best British chefs, and off I went with my next jam jar.' Leigh placed an order for 30 litres. And this was the beginning of a business and a passion.

"There are large pastas filled with mouth watering cheeses, cooked hams and spinach, and grilled vegetables glistening with olive oil."

She says, "For the first three years I felt like I took three steps forward and 25 steps back. At every turn my father and husband said you must be off your head. And then I started bringing in fruit and veg and at that point my husband was pulling out his hair." But now Ninai's husband is the financial brains behind the business, which allows her to concentrate on the food side of things.

In the beginning when dropping off the oil, people would ask "do you have a product list?" and of course there wasn't one. But it didn't take Ninai long to realise there was a market in Britain for local produce from Italy. She says, "It's about stomach. I'm a great foodie. I live and breathe food. Not in the sophisticated way. I eat healthily. It's got to be good." And it's this mantra that's resulted in the quality products that Machiavelli imports.

Primarily Machiavelli supplied top London restaurants and stores like Fortnum & Mason, Harrods and Selfridges. Clients include companies such as Coutts, which uses its products in its client dining rooms. Now between 500 and 800 products are available to the public via their website. This means everyone can have access to foods that only a few days ago may have left the rural producer in Italy.

Machiavelli's products come from all over Italy. A favourite cheese for Ninai is Quadrello. It's from Piedmont. And unusually it's made from buffalo milk. She says. "t's outstanding." The same producer supplies them with a blue cheese and yoghurt.

Salamis and hams are a large part of the business. Everything is sourced by Ninai who says, "I went about it by eating it." For some inexplicable reason, according to Ninai, "pork that's born and bred in Italy is the sweetest pork in Europe". Some producers import their pigs and raise them in Italy, but apparently the end product doesn't taste the same as the home grown variety. And if the evidence is in the eating she's right. Take for instance Capocollo. This is cured neck fillet seasoned with fennel seeds. When you taste this you are initially hit with a flavour similar to parma ham - except this is a salami. The pork is definitely sweet and very tender. And then there's the after taste of the fennel seeds which linger and complement the meat. Truly delicious.

"Everyone can have access to foods that only a few days ago may have left the rural producer in Italy."

Much of Machiavelli's success comes from being able to track down excellent products. When Italians say to Ninai they 'have never seen or heard of a product or tasted it in such quality' you know this company has the knack of sourcing something special. When asked about her approach to food Ninai says, "You just know." She doesn't profess to having 'advanced taste buds' but believes the key is that 'you truly love to eat'.

Anyone can recreate the best of their Italian holidays by visiting the Machiavelli website or Manicomo in Chelsea. And from May the Zarachs are embarking on a new venture. Their Italian food will find a new home in the city of London. Manicomo in Gutter Lane will open on three floors of a Norman Foster building. Situated in Cheapside which was originally a market it would seem that Manicomo has found its natural home.

For further information visit www.machiavellifood.com

By Michele Nevard

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