
There are few places as beautiful as Val D'Isère to slide half-way down a mountain head-first. I know this because I did it recently. One moment, I was admiring the mountainous stretch of Mont Blanc while executing what I thought was a perfect turn. The next, I was hurtling backwards down a red run with one ski wedged underneath me.
As I gathered ferocious pace, I could hear Pierre, my ski instructor, shouting something about putting 'your foot down!' in the distance. But all I could do was look sky-wards, take in the view and hope I wasn't plummeting to my death. That's when I noticed Val D'Isère's beauty. I've had similar incidents in the past - only without the view.
There were a few sniggers from nearby snow boarders as I thudded to a stop against Pierre (who'd skied down ahead of me) and shook snow from my goggles. But I didn't mind. Unlike others in Val D'Isère this season, I wasn't exactly there for the skiing. I was there to lounge around the five-star Chalet Merlo, leaving the rest of my group to ski the black runs of Tignes, Les Arc, Sainte Foy and Val – all within a 20-minute drive.
It was the chalet's proximity to the slopes, and the fact that this season is said to be Europe's best in 10 years, that got me out there in the first place. That - and the hire company coming straight to the chalet to kit us all out with boots and skis the day we arrived. When I voiced concerns about my skiing capabilities, the chalet director, Alex Russell, simply fixed me up with Pierre (and organised another instructor for the off-piste enthusiasts). And so off we all went the next morning.
"All I could do was look sky-wards, take in the beautiful view and hope I wasn't plummeting to my death"
Like many haphazard skiers, I pursue it partly for the superb views, partly to be close to nature, but mostly to feel less guilty about lounging around afterward, over-indulging on fine wine and food.
In Chalet Merlo, no such rules apply. Fancy some champagne for breakfast? They'll have it chilled and waiting for you. Prefer a massage to a head-first dive down the mountain? The massage room will be set at just the right temperature. Perhaps a dip in the outdoor Jacuzzi afterward? The water jets will be at the ready.
This isn't just luxury, it's five-star all inclusive luxury. Chalet Merlo's motto is to make your stay as easy, enjoyable and opulent as possible. They will pick you up at the airport, chauffeur you to and from ski resorts all week and then drop you back at the end. They serve limitless champagne, wine, and spirits along with six-course gourmet meals. You ask, they will deliver – or do everything in their power to.
Located in the village of Le Miroir high above the Tarentaise Valley, Chalet Merlo is a three-hour drive from Geneva airport (or 20 minute helicopter ride over Mont Blanc – though a less eco-conscious option).
"Park yourself on the huge squishy sofas and peek out at the view, then sit back and pick a film from their collection of over 700 DVDs"
Opened in December and sleeping 12, it is split over three floors - with a mezzanine level boasting a PlayStation and plasma TV. The five doubles and one twin bedroom are situated on the ground and first floors. Wardrobes built out of old timber from dismantled farmhouses stand beside original French artworks hanging on the walls – all very rustic.
In the living and dining area, there's more reclaimed wood coupled with exposed beams and floor-to-ceiling glass windows offering wide-screen views. Park yourself on the huge squishy sofas and peek out, then sit back and pick a film from their collection of over 700 DVDs.
Though I was tempted back to the slopes intermittently throughout my stay, mainly for the delicious lunches at La Ferme (near Tignes) and Belliou La Fumée (Les Arcs, 2000-point) and even a spot of shopping at Val D'Isère, my excessive indulgence did also propel me to the chalet's sauna and gym, though I stopped short of a private yoga lesson and reflexology.
By the end of the week, we were certainly a more relaxed and revived group, albeit hesitantly returning to work. And who could blame us? Coupled with the service, sumptuous surroundings and ski setting, it's a place you simply don't want to leave. I even considered a last minute head-first slope dive to put it off… but decided I'd leave it until next time.
See www.chaletmerlo.eu or call +33 61 9463661 or +33 479224581 for more details. Prices start from £10,000 to £16,000 a week during the winter based on 12 people sharing, half board with all drinks, airport transfers (road) and daily resort transfers. Weekend rates from £200 per person per night. There is limited availability still left for this season.
By Barbara Walshe
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