You know when your customer list features names like Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay, the Savoy and the House of Lords that you must be doing something right. And in the case of H. Forman & Son they've been doing it since 1905. That is smoking salmon. But theirs is the London Cure, with its light, delicate, whisper of smoke. It's very different from the Scottish smokeries version, who, let's face it, didn't start smoking fish until they saw salmon being smoked in the East End of London at the turn of the 20 ^th century.

All that was four generations ago for the Forman family. And they're now considered to be Britain's leading salmon smoker. But they don't stop at salmon. If it's fish they'll smoke it, anything from cod's roe to shark, or halibut.

Lance Forman is the man currently sitting in the family hot seat. However, he spent 12 years doing other work before he joined the business and says, "I would recommend getting experience outside first. You have to bring something to the party and need to have respect." But now salmon is in his blood. When he tells you that slicing a piece of salmon is a 'mental massage' it's clear this is also a passion not just a business.

The success of Forman's smoked fish is due to several factors. "It takes skill and you must source the right fish," says Lance. "You have to understand the fish, treat it with respect. If you don't have the best in the world to start with, you don't have the best smoked fish."

And then it's down to the Forman style of curing and smoking. They only use 3% salt. It gives the fish a shorter shelf life but better flavour. When it comes to smoking, according to Lance, "The art of it is about enhancing the fish. You must taste the fish not the smoke." Forman's fish is ultra fresh. All farmed salmon has to be in the factory within 48 hours of leaving the water. And they use traditional methods with hand filleting. When you stack all that against other methods, such as using 5% salt, (for a longer shelf life) then adding sugar to cover the saltiness; injecting with water to increase weight; and, wait for it, spray curing the fish with liquid smoked flavouring, you soon begin to realise the superiority of the Forman fish. But while the process hasn't changed since 1905 the factory has.

When he tells you that slicing a piece of salmon is a 'mental massage' it's clear this is also a passion not just a business.

Forman & Sons have always been in east London. Just over two months ago they were in the middle of what is to become the Olympic stadium. Relocation was inevitable. But they wanted to stay in the area where the company laid down its roots. "We weren't the first," says Lance, "But we are the last remaining smokery. Not many great things started in the East End of London. We've been instrumental in the UK's great food and are part of the heritage of this part of London." So, most appropriately, they moved across the canal to Fish Island.

The back streets of Fish Island take you by dilapidated Victorian buildings. But that all changes when you turn the bend and are confronted by a large salmon pink, state-of-the-art factory, the new home of Forman & Sons. And while the pink is reminiscent of salmon, that's not the only thing. This factory has been designed as though you're walking into a slice of salmon. Metal structures represent the bones. And the whole feel is aquatic, from the steel rope handrails to the portholes looking onto the factory floor and the watery blue green colours on the office walls. It's modern art meets tradition.

Think of traditional smokers and you think of conical stone buildings. At Forman's the kiln is sparkling aluminium. A long rectangular compartment houses the oak block that provides the smoke. Only in this case the smoke is created by the friction of a wheel. The result, it's more energy efficient, less pollution, and there's complete control over the amount of smoke released into the kilns.

For many, the traditional smoked flavour is ultimate. Others enjoy the addition of subtle spices and herbs. Forman's have their own special recipes that use an endless combination of flavourings such as cinnamon, orange, coriander and vodka. Wholesale clients will have their own individual cures made specially for them. And you can taste why. The wasabi and ginger cured smoked salmon destined for the Hilton Park Lane, London, is an amazing flavour. The delicate smoking is ever so lightly touched by ginger and just a tickling of wasabi. So the fish flavour comes through but is beautifully complemented by the other two tastes. Nothing dominates. Lance comments, "Every client has their own way of curing. I like to think of our factory as more of a kitchen, it's bespoke."

Working with a gourmet product and on such an individual basis it's not surprising there were frequent requests for Forman's to supply to the consumer. So, in 2002 Lance set up a mail order business, Forman & Field, and employed two graduates to run it for him. This not only brings smoked fish direct to your door but other products from small businesses around the country that work in an artisan way. It focuses on natural, seasonal produce. A pioneer in the field of local specialist food, the company is now one of the top fine food retail businesses.

"You have to understand the fish, treat it with respect. If you don't have the best in the world to start with, you don't have the best smoked fish."

Pioneering is a word that sits comfortably with Forman's. And there are big plans afoot for the factory. Next year the first floor rooms, with windows looking across the canal to what will be the Olympic Stadium, will become a visitors' centre. And there'll be a bridge to the left of the factory crossing to the games. Factory visits will be on the menu and a new deli will stock those tasty fish. And in the long term the top floor may well become a restaurant. This could be become a fish and food tourist destination spot.

Watching moisture draw from salted fish in droplets of water, seeing 500 small salmon fillets waiting to enter the kiln, and marvelling at the ease with which the sharp blade cuts through fresh fish are all guaranteed to alert the tastebuds to a gastronomic delight. Lance likens a smoked farmed salmon to 'light chardonnay' and a wild one to 'full bodied claret'. And this is what Forman & Sons smoked fish is all about. It's enjoying fantastic fresh fish that is treated with care and thought to produce a unique taste. There can be no better flavour than that of a wild London cured smoked salmon that really does melt in the mouth as it gently releases its subtle fishy flavours.

For more information, or to order, visit www.formanandfield.com

By Michele Nevard