Ring on chain
Fairtrade Fortnight: Trading up

Just a few years ago, you probably pushed your trolley down the tea and coffee aisle of Waitrose, glancing curiously at one or two 'Fairtrade' products. You might even have stopped, picked one up and read some of the information on the cheap, grainy packaging. But, chances are, you didn't buy. Back then, people linked Fairtrade with charity and, while they wanted to help charities, they also wanted a nice cup of tea. Was Fairtrade-certified tea any good? They just weren't sure.

"I don't think they're breast beating about poverty when they buy Fairtrade, I think they just want to feel good about the choices that they make."
Today, it's a different story. The market for Fairtrade products is doubling every year with a queue of new customers coming from all ends of the market, and regulars extending what they purchase to bananas, fruit, juices, sugar, rice, spices – even cotton and wine. Fairtrade has become a recognised brand, lifestyle choice and proud stamp, reassuring buyers that producers in the third world are being paid fairly for their work.

So, why the sudden popularity hike? Well, it's not actually that sudden. Fairtrade Foundation has been around since 1994, educating individuals and promoting awareness of the payment inequality that exists between first and third world countries. Celebrity influence has contributed however, with people like Chris Martin, lead singer of Cold Play, tattooing Fairtrade on his hand in black marker every time he's played a gig over the past few years. And more celebrities like Vic Reeves, Catherine Tate and Jo Wood have followed, choosing organic, ethical and Fairtrade products for life.

But, just as culpable, is the social movement happening across the country, according to Barbara Crowther, head of communications at Fairtrade Foundation. "Here in the UK, we have quite a global outlook and a history of campaigning organisations who have really tried to raise awareness of poverty over the decades, such as Band Aid and the Make Poverty History campaign. Now, people are taking their ethics shopping.

"I don't think they're breast beating about poverty when they buy Fairtrade, I think they just want to feel good about the choices that they make. And if people have an easy option that is going to deliver positive change, and they can pick it up off the shelf, they will take it."

"Fairtrade products aren't charity products, they're ones for which a better deal has been struck with the producing community. It's a trade deal, completely separate from the product's packaging."
Compared to relatively slow beginnings (Fairtrade certified just over 350 products within its first ten years), the last three years have been frantic, with 3,000 products now certified. And the boom comes right across the market. "There's been real growth in the luxury market," Crowther confirms, "and also at the other end too. We certify products so that as many people as possible get the option to choose them."

Interestingly, it was companies like the Co-op who were 'iconic' leaders initially, offering a huge range of Fairtrade products to its customers and swapping over their own-brand chocolate and coffee four years ago. When giants like Sainsburys, Waitrose and M&S noticed the impact, they too began increasing their ranges, packaging the products to appeal to their customers.

"Fairtrade products aren't charity products, they're ones for which a better deal has been struck with the producing community," explains Crowther. "It's a trade deal, completely separate from the product's packaging. How Fairtrade products are packaged reflects what the consumer is looking for. If customers are looking for luxury, then the packaging has to reflect that."

The launch of Fairtrade cotton in 2005 has had the biggest impact to the Foundation's growth to date. Within the first six months, there were hundreds more certified products hitting the market, including an announcement from M&S to launch an entire range. Ethical idols like actress Sienna Miller wearing People Tree organic cotton and sports star Steve Redgrave launching his own clothing range, 5G for Debenhams, have only furthered its popularity and punch.

"We can't work fast enough to keep up with the demand that's been created," admits Crowther. "When we launched our certified cotton, we did so with products from 10 different companies. These were companies who had been pioneering the cause. Now there are many more involved, including M&S who do 20 million products made with Fairtrade cotton."

Their next big market is arguably green gold – Fairtrade's first foray outside the agricultural realm they've cultivated. So far, they've been working with Hampshire-based business, Cred, one of the world's first companies to offer guaranteed ethical gold and platinum jewellery. Cred founder, Greg Valerio, began focusing on the area after discovering mining's harmful impact on the environment and the poisonous practices workers are subject to.

Now, following a partnership with Green Gold in Columbia over three years ago, African-Colombian miners have developed ways of mining with minimum impact on the environment. Cred buys most of the precious metals and the social premium is invested into bringing more families into the scheme.

"There are similarities in the agriculture and mining world in that there are people who are living in absolutely extreme poverty who are trying to eek what they can to make a living. Mining is very hard work that bears no resemblance to the value that we place on gold. We're also trying to address the environmental impact, sustainability and standards around trade," confirmed Crowther.

With growth like this, the deal can only improve for people working in third world countries. And it's clear that consumers are committed to the cause. After years of groundwork, shops from Harrods to ASDA are all proudly boosting their range of Fairtrade products – and all in response to the customer demand.

Facts

Consumers worldwide spent £1.1bn on Fairtrade Certified Products in 2006, a 42% increase on 2005, benefiting over 7 million people - farmers, workers and their families.

The FAIRTRADE Mark is now recognised by almost three in five British adults (TNS Omnimas, July 2007)

UK Sales of Fairtrade certified products reached an estimated retail value of £290m in 2006, an increase of 49% on 2005, and in 2007 sales were running at an annualised rate of over £400m (TNS Omnimas, July 2007)

For further information visit www.fairtrade.org.uk

By Barbara Walshe

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