Paris Fashion Week coincides with Eating Disorders Awareness Week in the UK this month… cruel intention or coincidence? As miniscule models sashay down the catwalk from 26 February, the organisation B-eat (Beating Eating Disorders) will be holding events of its own - talks with top doctors and interactive workshops focused on self esteem, cognitive remediation therapy and more, to help people fight their eating disorders.

But is fashion to blame for these? The size zero debate reared its ugly head in September 2006 when model Luisel Ramos collapsed on the runway during Uruguay's Fashion Week and later died of heart failure. Investigations revealed she had fasted to attain the level of weight loss she thought 'necessary' to take part. Since then, debate has raged about painfully thin fashion icons being a dangerous influence on young women and the 'thinspiration' behind many eating disorders and anorexics.

"Models are an unusual breed. They seem to be taller than most of us, slimmer than most of us and therefore clothes look good on them. That's the way it's been since time began." Matthew Williamson

Do the fashionistas agree? There's a clear divide. Madrid Fashion Council reacted immediately to Ramos's death by banning any model from their shows with a body mass index (BMI) below 18 – a measurement of body mass taking into account weight and height. This aimed to negate the controversial US size zero - a size 4 equivalent in the UK – with the waist size of a seven year old girl at a mere 23 inches.

London Fashion Week, which took place shortly after, prompted British designers, politicians and health experts to speak out, with the British Fashion Council confirming the seriousness of the situation.

Since then, more fashion designers and former top models have waded into this debate. Stella McCartney will only use models that are a size 10 and above, Victoria Beckham (herself a size zero) has banned size zero models from showing her range, and Karl Lagerfield, renowned for losing over 6.5 stone in over a year, refused three mega skinny models for his Chanel show last November.

"I have nothing against skinny girls. But these were terrible. They looked as if they had grown up in a Third World country with no food to eat." Karl Lagerfield

But how does the fashion industry decipher thin, healthy models from unhealthy ones? Some ultra thin models have been forced to reassess their eating habits. Others who are naturally lean have been snubbed and treated unfairly. With no clear solution to healthy model dilemma and with eating disorders continuing to spiral, the zero debate continues to gain weight.

Matthew Williamson, speaking to Coutts Woman

"Models are an unusual breed. They seem to be taller than most of us, slimmer than most of us and therefore clothes look good on them, that's the way it's been since time began. The size zero debate is about anorexia. To pinpoint it all on some models is slightly dangerous because it's an illness that could affect anyone. I don't think the fashion industry is solely responsible. When a girl is unnaturally thin, then it's a problem whatever she does, whether that's in the city or on the runway."

Alexandra Shulman, editor of British Vogue (The Guardian)

"It is a really complex question. Of course girls should not be sick. Anorexia is an awful illness. Some people - not just models but actresses and celebrities - exacerbate the situation, but Jean Shrimpton and Twiggy were not fatter than Lily Cole or Kate Moss. People are motivated by what they can't have. Centuries ago, being slightly plump was a sign of prosperity and status. Now it's the reverse. Is it rational? No, not really. But it was ever thus."

Giorgio Armani (The Daily Mail)

"I never wanted to use girls who are too skinny. Unfortunately, though, the stylists and the media have interfered and the trend is for models who are incredibly thin."

Karl Lagerfield (The Telegraph)

"It is the first time I have ever done something like this. I have nothing against skinny girls. But these were terrible. They looked as if they had grown up in a Third World country with no food to eat. I sent them back to the agency. I did not think they should be modelling."

Stefano Gabbana (The Metro)

"I have had the misfortune to see anorexia close up and I can say it is a psychiatric pathology and needs to be tackled as such. If I had a young daughter, I would not let her take part in fashion shows. I ask you, how can we put children on catwalks?"

Roland Mouret (Observer Woman)

"Newspapers are trying to make us believe that fashion is a big abusive monster when, in fact, society is abusive."

Beth Ditto, lead singer of the Gossip (The Sun)

"If there's anyone to blame for size zero, it's not women. Blame gay men who work in the fashion industry who want these women as dolls. Men don't know what it feels like to be a woman and be expected to look a particular way."

F or more information on B-eat, speak to Rachel Hogg 01603 753310 or e-mail r.hogg@b-eat.co.uk .

By Barbara Walshe