
A skinny little boy does back flips outside our car window, while his sister begs for money. Neither can be more than four or five years old, with dusty clothes and dirty hands from their street gymnastics.
We slip her a 100 Rupee note, which she snatches away before running off. Her brother quickly hops down from his headstand, begging for more. We hand over another note and he's gone, off to entertain his next audience.
This is how we spend our first swelteringly hot afternoon in Delhi, being chauffeured around the city, sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic, and watching impossibly young children snake between cars making a living from begging, selling glossy magazines, fruit, clothes and every trinket you can imagine.
It wasn't quite how we imagined the trip when we'd booked several months previously, but then that was part of the appeal. This holiday was about experiencing some culture alongside some much-needed recuperation. My partner and I didn't want to just sit on a beach, slathering on sun lotion and slugging down cocktails, we wanted to experience something new.
And, according to a report by PricewaterhouseCoopers, we're not alone. Their research into the luxury market reveals 56 per cent of travellers want the same; 'special experiences that make memories', while 48 per cent want to 'visit new places and have new experiences'.
"Experiencing Old Delhi from the back of a bicycle, pedalled by a man who looked at least 100, was heavenly and hair-raising in equal measures."
Our new experience was three days in Delhi and four in Mumbai either side of a week in the magnificent Maldives. And where better to stay than the Taj hotel group, a five-star chain embedded in Indian culture since 1903.
Delhi was a blur of experiences, starting with the high end districts where we were chauffeured down tree-lined streets, past monuments and into antique shops that could have been on the King's Road – places like Siander Nagan market, Khan market and landmarks like the Garden of Five Senses.
But it was seeing 'Old Delhi' from the back of a bicycle, pedalled by a man who looked at least 100, that was bar far the best bit. People swarmed the streets as he weaved in and out of traffic, coloured saris floated up from all sides, ramshackle stalls served homemade food by the roadside, while trucks, buses and cabs narrowly avoided collision after collision. Heavenly and hair-raising in equal measures.
Exhausted from year-round work in Britain, and the chaos of three days in India, the Maldives is a perfect place to recuperate. What hasn't been said about its 1,190 tiny coral islands, of which 202 are inhabited - 87 of those by exclusive resorts? Sea, sand, heavenly resorts? Check, check, check. The place has everything.
On arrival, we were met by the Taj Exotica Resort & Spa team who transported us, James Bond-style, 10 minutes by speedboat to the island. Stepping off, we were taken directly to our villa (one of just 62) and the only decisions I made henceforth were… when and where to eat next?
"There are some things you just shouldn't miss, like Dhobi Ghats, 200 families working in the open-air laundry soaking and pummelling the city's garments each morning."
Taj Exotica is the only Maldives resort to serve an a la carte breakfast, rather than a buffet, to ensure everything is always fresh and perfectly prepared. Dinner options are award winning, with their fine dining restaurant, Deep End, named Condé Nast Traveller' s Best Restaurant in the Maldives last year. And the private options are extraordinary, like dining in the middle of the sea, or hiring your own personal chef for the evening to cook you 18 sumptuous courses, if you can manage that many!
After recuperating in the Maldives, Mumbai is perfect for bringing you back to life with a jolt. Staying at Taj Palace & Tower, we were bang in the middle of all the action, giving us the best of both worlds - all the chaos and culture outside, and then a classic hotel with delightful colonial décor to retreat to in the evenings.
Directly opposite is the iconic Gate of India, an Arc de Triomphe-style structure completed in 1924, which the British troops passed through in a ceremony when they vacated the country in 1948. Crowds of Indians and tourists queue daily to see it and get a one-hour ferry out to Elephant Island, where they visit the ancient caves.
A few streets away, there's a mish-mash of markets, from Colaba Causeway selling books, shoes, clothes and jewellery, to Crawford Market, specialising in flowers, fish, fresh produce and exotic birds. And if you've read Shantaram, you can spend your evenings popping in and out of the cafes, bars and restaurants all name-checked throughout.
For sights, don't miss Dhobi Ghats in the early morning, when 200 families work in the open-air laundry soaking, then pummelling the city's garments before they're hung out to dry. There's also the Haji Ali Mosque and Tomb nearby, accessed only at low tide so that in the evening, at high tide, the majestic building looks like it's floating above the water.
Victoria Terminus is another must-see with its unforgettable architecture. As the headquarters for Western Railways - a thousand rickety old trains leave there every day - a sight in itself! And while you're there, daily Bollywood tours can take you the 1.5 hour drive to Film City.
But, really, that's just a pinch of Mumbai's chaotic culture, which seeped into our systems and blew us away. Stretching out on a sun lounger somewhere hot just doesn't compare. What we had were unforgettable experiences – trawling street markets, eating the city's best shish from a kiosk by the roadside, picking out material for dresses made from scratch in a day, and seeing street gymnastics you never quite forget.
Of course, the only difficulty you face afterwards is how to top the experience. Well, we're already on the case. And here are the options so far…
South Africa and Mauritius
Visit Cape Town and swim with sharks, safari in style at the private game parks, take the Garden route to Port Elizabeth and be fascinated by the fabulous scenery. Also visit the Stellenbosch wine regions and Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 25 years, and then soak up some sun in Mauritius, an idyllic island getaway with its own diverse blend of cultures, religions and beaches.
Kenya , Tanzania and the Seychelles
A safari haven, see zebras, giraffes and wildebeest roam wild in Kenya's Masai Mara National Reserve, alongside the 'Big Five' – lions, elephants, buffalos, leopards and rhinos. Still feeling energetic? Try climbing Mount Kilimanjaro just over the Tanzania border, or visiting the Ngorongoro Crater, then head a further 25 miles along the coast to Zanzibar. Sun yourself in the historic Stone Town, with its gorgeous, relaxed beaches. Looking for more five-star luxury? Grab a flight from Tanzania to the Seychelles for exclusive island hideaways.
Cuba and Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico
With its communist regime still intact, travelling to Cuba is like trekking back in time. Learn about Che Guevara, Fidel Castro, and the history of Guantanamo Bay. Visit other cities like Trinidad and Santiago de Cuba, then fly two hours to Cancun, Mexico, for five-star relaxation. For more seclusion and the best beaches around, continue south two hours to Playa del Carmen, where you can also visit Tulum, the ancient Mayan ruins, right off the coast.
Barbara Walshe few direct from London to India with British Airways, and with Sri Lankan Airways from India to the Maldives. Based on two people sharing, accommodation at the Delhi's Taj Mahal hotel starts at £285 per night, Taj Exotica Resort & Spa at $1,000 per night, and Mumbai's Taj Mahal Palace & Tower hotel at £250 per night. For more information, visit www.tajhotels.comIsland Hideaways announces new entertainment for the children
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