When you see the names of the cheeses stacked up in Neal’s Yard Dairy they read like the words from a poem. Cashel Blue, Ardrahan, Durrus, Gubbeen and Ticklemore all compete for attention alongside their British and Irish compatriots. Neal’s Yard’s two shops in Covent Garden and Borough Market feature an overwhelming array of native cheeses that deliver astonishingly different flavours. They debunk the myth that all good cheese comes from France or continental Europe. But it wasn’t always the case.

Neal’s Yard’s Chris George says, “Good English cheese died out during the two world wars. It was all mass production and block cheese. It was only in the 70’s, 30 years after rationing, that people started making cheese not in that style.” And he should know, because George is the man at Neal’s Yard who runs the events such as tutored tastings. He also visits the farms, works with the wholesale clients and is generally the public face of the company.

The first Neal’s Yard Dairy shop opened in Covent Garden in 1979, around the time cheese was enjoying a renaissance. An eager employee, Randolph Hodgson, started experimenting and researching recipes, making Greek-style yoghurt and fresh cheeses. A year later he took over the business. It was the beginning of a journey that’s resulted in a thriving concern with its finger on the pulse of the artisan cheese maker.

The dairy has its own cheese making company, Neal’s Yard Cremery in Herefordshire. Hodgson is still a hands-on maker. Just over a year ago, in Nottingham, he created a cheese called Stichelton. It looks like Stilton but doesn’t qualify to join the ranks. Why? Because unlike the seven Stilton’s made worldwide, he’s made it with unpasteurised milk. The result? A creamy, gentle flavour with a subtle kick of blue. It’s a moreish recipe.

“The dairy is not simply a shop selling cheese. It works closely with the producers, often buying young cheeses and maturing them under the railway arches in Bermondsey.”

The only hand-made Stilton of the seven is Colston Bassett. And Neal’s Yard works with this producer to create their own version of the cheese. For George, “This cheese maker is the best producer anywhere. Our cheese uses animal rennet instead of vegetable. It gives it a better flavour and texture. The maker even told us it was unquestionably better. It’s slightly more subtly blue. In a lot of ways we can influence cheese.”

Some cheeses did survive from the early 20th century. Appleby’s Cheshire and Kirkham’s Lancashire are two hard-cheese notables. But initially the local producers turned their hand to soft cheeses. They ‘looked to the continent for inspiration because it makes sense to go for smaller, more French style cheese. They’re soft and ready in a few weeks’. That can be key to the survival of an artisan cheese maker because the cheese doesn’t require long storage times before going to market. For instance it takes a gallon of milk to make one pound of cheese. When you consider a hard cheese may weigh 50 pounds and needs to be stored, turned, looked after and matured, for say 12 months; you begin to understand the maths.

Neal’s Yard stands out not just for its excellent cheese but its entire approach to the whole process. The dairy is not simply a business selling cheese. It works closely with the producers, often buying young cheeses and maturing them under the railway arches in Bermondsey.

Compare Neal’s Yard cheeses to fine wines and you begin to understand their provenance. This lovingly nurtured food delivers taste sensations unlike anything processed and mass produced. And there will always be subtle changes depending on factors such as that storage process. This is what makes hand produced cheese special, and of course slightly more expensive.

“This lovingly nurtured food delivers taste sensations unlike anything processed and mass produced.”

Neal’s Yard not only works closely with the producer but also with the customer, understanding that the whole process from farm to shop is inextricably linked. Customer’s comments are fed back to the producer. “That’s very important,” says George. “We want the cheese maker to make the best cheese possible. We build a bridge and create a dialogue between the customer and producer.”

A shopping trip to Neal’s Yard Dairy, or one of the many market stalls it sells from around London, is a gastronomic experience. If you don’t like public tasting don’t go, because you’re encouraged to try everything before buying; and there’s no pressure. All this makes sense because the flavours of a particular cheese are not a given. They will change depending on factors such as the milk and the time of year.

So are there any trends in cheese at the moment? More cheese is being made in the traditional style, like the cheddars and Leicesters. But whatever the choice, the hatted and aproned cheese sellers with the knowledge and smiles will do their best to demystifying the product. You’ll most likely find yourself walking away with more than anticipated. And if you find a little piece of Stinking Bishop in your bag don’t worry about the smell. When you get it home, see it oozing out of its waxed paper and taste its creamy, not too pungent flavour, you’ll forgive any odour.

For more information visit www.nealsyarddairy.co.uk

By Michele Nevard