
As you lean back under the old sea almond tree, sipping on wine from deep in the hotel's cellar and feeling the warmth of the Andaman Sea ebb and flow between your toes it is hard to imagine that such horror could ever have happened here, in the peaceful resort of Khao Lak
Yet on 26th December 2004 a tsunami tore through this exact spot, destroying everything in its path. The area, which borders five national parks and the world-famous dive sanctuaries of the Similan and Surin Islands, was financially dependent on tourism, and with most of the town's buildings left literally in pieces, thousands of Thais found themselves unemployed and homeless overnight. They were the lucky ones: the tsunami killed around 8,000 people in Thailand, over half of them in Khao Lak and the surrounding area.
Yet, in a remarkably short space of time Khao Lak has got itself back on its feet. With financial and practical assistance around the world, around half of the buildings destroyed by the tsunami have now been restored. Khao Lak is very much open for business again, and holidaymakers are rapidly returning.
Most of them fly into Phuket, either directly or via Bangkok, and then take a car for the hour-long journey up the coast to Khao Lak. There they find several top quality hotels to choose from. Around twenty minutes drive from the centre of Khao Lak, on the white sandy Bang Sak beach, is the five star Le Meridien Khao Lak Beach & Spa Resort. For those looking for modern Thai design, the Ramada Resort Khao Lak has re-opened in a blaze of clean lines and minimalist elegance.
However, for many visitors to Khao Lak, there is only one place to stay: The Sarojin. Set amongst ten acres of lush tropical gardens on an 11 kilometre secluded white sand beach, providing all year swimming and water sports, The Sarojin is one of Asia's most exclusive hotels. It takes its name from the mythical Lady Sarojin, daughter of a prominent Thai nobleman, who was regarded as the perfect host, and its General Manager and part-owner Kate Kemp believes this is reflected in the personal and heartfelt experience that she and her staff provide for their guests.
The Sarojin was still under construction on 26th December 2004... Kemp recalls: "The biggest 'blessing' was that my husband, Andrew, and I had given the staff of 400 construction workers and 100 operational staff the 25th and 26th December as holiday."
All guests are welcomed by the resort's "Imagineer", a concierge, who is there to tailor-make days to suit each guest's tastes and imaginations. Kemp says: "Perhaps a private charter on the luxury boat Lady Sarojin, or a jungle adventure complete with champagne? A Thai cooking class and lunch by a waterfall? A romantic private barbecue on The Sarojin's own secluded white beach? Whatever our guests want, we will make it happen."
It was the 2007 winner of the "World Luxury Romantic Hotel" at the World Luxury Hotel Awards, and the winner in the "Asia's Leading Boutique Hotel" category at the 2006 World Travel Awards. Not bad for a place which just three years ago was under a foot of debris and mud.
The Sarojin was still under construction on 26th December 2004 and had been due to open in mid-January 2005. Kemp recalls: "The biggest 'blessing' was that my husband, Andrew, and I had given the staff of 400 construction workers and 100 operational staff the 25th and 26th December as holiday. There were only 20 people on site when the tsunami hit and no staff were lost."
"All guests are welcomed by the resort's "Imagineer", a concierge, who is there to tailor-make days to suit each guest's tastes and imaginations."
However, the beach restaurant, spa and all the decking were washed away. The guest rooms were still standing but the interior downstairs was destroyed. Despite the heartbreak and devastation, the couple were determined to rebuild The Sarojin. They were aware of how important it was for the local economy to attract tourists back to the area, and they believed that the opening of The Sarojin would play a major role in that.
Kemp says: "The rebuilding of The Sarojin and recovery of Khao Lak has been an intensely emotional experience. It has been inspiring to experience the amazing spirit of the staff, the people of Khao Lak and all those from elsewhere in Thailand and the rest of the world who helped a community to recover in the face of an immense tragedy. It was an experience that has integrated us very closely with our staff and the local community and has forged strong relationships."
This bond has found practical expression in The Sarojin Khao Lak Community Fund, which has funded priority building projects in the region such as fishing boats at the Pakarang Boat Yard, badly needed housing, and new school buildings.
There is much still be done, and Funds such as The Sarojin's can only go so far. More than anything, the area needs foreign visitors to start visiting again, and the indications are that they will. Already they are returning in their droves, filling up the restored hotels, restaurants and bars, marvelling not only at the spectacular natural beauty of the region but also at the remarkable transformation from tsunami-battered beach to world-class holiday resort.
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